The Cambrian Mountains Astro Trail: 9 Dark Sky Discovery Sites in Mid Wales
There are few places in Wales where the landscape changes quite so dramatically when the Sun goes down.
The Cambrian Mountains are one of them.
In 2019, I was fortunate to be involved in establishing the Cambrian Mountains Astro Trail, working alongside Allan Trow of Dark Sky Wales and the late Alyn Wallace, with the aim of connecting some of the darkest and most accessible locations across this extraordinary part of Mid Wales.
The result is a trail linking nine Dark Sky Discovery Sites, stretching across Ceredigion, Carmarthenshire and Powys. Each offers something different – reservoirs, forests, historic buildings, mountain landscapes and open moorland – but they all share one precious resource: exceptionally dark skies.
And while the stars are the reason to visit after dark, every one of these places is worth exploring in daylight too.
So, if you're planning an astro adventure in the Cambrian Mountains, here are nine places to put on your list.
1. Mynydd Llanllwni Dark Sky Discovery Site
At the southern end of the Astro Trail, Mynydd Llanllwni is an open, windswept upland landscape with huge skies and a real feeling of being away from it all.
It's a wonderful place to arrive before sunset, watch the landscape change as daylight fades and then stay as darkness takes over. The summit of nearby Mynydd Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn is also home to its distinctive community-built peace cairn and provides spectacular daytime views.
During the day, explore the surrounding countryside and nearby Brechfa Forest, which offers walking, cycling, mountain-biking and forest trails.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Cambrian Mountains Glamping & Camping, Llanddewi Brefi – a peaceful base beside the River Teifi with excellent opportunities for exploring the surrounding mountains by day and enjoying the dark skies by night.
Also nearby Pantycelyn Escapes near Lampeter.
2. Llyn Brianne Dark Sky Discovery Site
The vast waters of Llyn Brianne create one of the most atmospheric landscapes on the entire trail.
By day, the reservoir is surrounded by forests, mountains and winding roads, making it an excellent destination for walking, cycling and landscape photography. As darkness falls, the reservoir becomes a wonderful foreground for photographing the stars.
On a clear night, the combination of dark water, distant hills and a huge night sky can be spectacular.
Nearby attractions include the dramatic Abergwesyn Pass and Devil's Staircase, while the RSPB Gwenffrwd-Dinas Nature Reserve offers woodland, waterfalls and the legendary cave associated with Twm Siôn Cati.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Black Mountain Escapes, Llangadog, or Holiday Let Mid Wales, Llanwrtyd Wells, depending on which part of the Llyn Brianne area you are exploring. Both provide excellent bases for exploring the southern Cambrian Mountains.
Holiday Let Mid Wales 
Bryndu Caravan Camping Safari Tent 
The Felin Fach Griffin
3. Ty'n Cornel Dark Sky Discovery Site
Hidden away in the remote countryside near Soar-y-Mynydd, Ty'n Cornel gives you a real taste of the wild heart of the Cambrian Mountains.
This is the sort of place where the journey is part of the experience. Roads become narrower, settlements become fewer and eventually the surrounding landscape feels wonderfully remote.
During daylight, explore the surrounding mountain roads and valleys, visit the tiny and atmospheric Soar-y-Mynydd Chapel, or head towards Tregaron and the Cors Caron National Nature Reserve, one of Britain's great raised bog landscapes.
Then, after dark, simply look up.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Cambrian Mountains Glamping & Camping, Llanddewi Brefi. Its location provides an excellent base for exploring this central section of the Cambrian Mountains.
4. Dolgoch Dark Sky Discovery Site
Dolgoch sits in a wonderfully secluded part of the Cambrian Mountains, close to the headwaters of the River Tywi.
It's an ideal location for anyone who wants to experience the tranquillity of the mountains before turning their attention to the heavens.
During the day, the surrounding area is perfect for walking, wildlife watching and exploring some of the remote mountain roads. The nearby Abergwesyn Pass provides one of Mid Wales' great scenic drives, while the surrounding valleys offer plenty of opportunities for landscape photography.
At night, the remoteness becomes its greatest asset.
With very little artificial light, the stars can appear astonishingly numerous.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Llwynderw Hall near Abergwesyn
5. Coed Y Bont Dark Sky Discovery Site
Coed y Bont offers something rather different from the open mountain sites – woodland and dark skies together.
This community-managed woodland near Pontrhydfendigaid is particularly attractive during daylight, with woodland walks providing an opportunity to slow down and explore the landscape on foot.
And there is plenty to see nearby.
The magnificent ruins of Strata Florida Abbey are just a short distance away, while walks from the abbey lead towards the source of the River Teifi and the remote Teifi Pools.
After sunset, the woodland gives way to an incredibly dark rural landscape and a sky filled with stars.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Cambrian Trees Huts, Ysbyty Ystwyth. Set within the Cambrian Mountains and surrounded by woodland, it is particularly well placed for exploring Coed y Bont, Strata Florida, Hafod and Devil's Bridge.
Also nearby Penuwch Fach, Jibinc Treehouse and Llechwedd Mawr
Llechwedd Mawr 
Penuwch Fach 
Jibinc Treehouse
6. The Arch Dark Sky Discovery Site
Known locally as Y Bwa – The Arch, this beautiful stone arch near the Hafod Estate is one of the most distinctive locations on the Astro Trail.
Originally forming an impressive entrance to the Hafod Estate, it now provides an extraordinary foreground for night photography.
During daylight, allow plenty of time to explore Hafod Estate, one of Wales' great historic landscapes. Its paths, waterfalls, woodland and dramatic scenery can easily occupy a full day.
Nearby Devil's Bridge is another essential stop, with its famous waterfalls, historic bridges and the spectacular Rheidol Gorge.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: The Hafod Hotel, Devil's Bridge – quite literally beside the famous waterfalls and exceptionally well placed for exploring this section of the Astro Trail.
Also nearby Pendre Pods, Cambrian Trees Huts and Castell Glandyfi
Castell Glandyfi 
Podiau Pendre Pods 
Cambrian Trees Huts
7. Pont ar Elan Dark Sky Discovery Site
Deep in the Elan Valley, Pont ar Elan is surrounded by reservoirs, dams, woodland and mountains.
It is perhaps one of the most recognisable landscapes on the Astro Trail and sits within the wider Elan Valley International Dark Sky Park.
Come during the day and you can explore the spectacular Victorian dams and reservoirs, walk or cycle through the valley, visit the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and enjoy the many viewpoints throughout the estate.
Stay until nightfall and the landscape changes completely.
The reservoirs become dark mirrors, the mountains become silhouettes and the night sky takes centre stage.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Lon Lodges, Nantmel, near Rhayader. The lodges are particularly well placed for exploring the Elan Valley and wider Radnorshire countryside.
Also nearby Quabbs Cabin near Knighton and Discover Parks Rockbridge near Presteigne Coety Bach near Llandrindod, Cwm Chwefru near Beulah and Llwynderw Hall near Abergwesyn
Discover Parks Rockbridge 
Llwynderw Hall 
Lake Cottages Cwm Chwefru 
Quabbs Cabin 
Coety Bach
8. Llanerchaeron Dark Sky Discovery Site
At the western end of the trail, Llanerchaeron brings together dark skies, history and a beautiful Welsh landscape.
The National Trust's Llanerchaeron estate is centred around an elegant Georgian villa designed by John Nash, surrounded by gardens, parkland, woodland and farmland beside the River Aeron.
It makes a fascinating daytime destination before becoming a completely different experience after sunset.
The nearby coast also opens up a whole range of possibilities, with Aberaeron, New Quay and Cardigan Bay all within easy reach.
For photographers, this is a particularly interesting part of the trail because you can combine architecture, landscape and dark-sky photography in the same area.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Cuckoo's Hideaway, near Aberaeron. This secluded treehouse is ideally placed for combining Llanerchaeron with the Ceredigion coast, Aberaeron and the wider countryside.
9. Y Star Inn, Dylife Dark Sky Discovery Site
At the northern end of the Astro Trail lies Dylife, one of the most remote communities in Mid Wales.
The historic Y Star Inn provides an evocative destination at the end of the trail, surrounded by huge open landscapes and exceptionally dark skies.
During the day, explore the surrounding mountains and the area's fascinating industrial heritage. The nearby Foel Fadian, Glaslyn Nature Reserve and sections of Glyndŵr's Way offer walking and spectacular views.
Then, as evening arrives, the surrounding darkness becomes the attraction.
For astrophotographers, the open horizons provide plenty of opportunities to work with the landscape, while on a really dark night the Milky Way can dominate the sky.
Nearest Cosmic Cymru Collective stay: Fronlwyd Escapes, near Bont Dolgadfan, is one of the Collective's northern Mid Wales bases and is particularly well positioned for exploring the Dylife, Llanidloes and wider Cambrian Mountains area.
Also nearby Noddfa Glamping near Darowen Machynlleth
More Than Just a Trail
The Cambrian Mountains Astro Trail was created to encourage people to discover something that is easy to overlook:
The Cambrian Mountains are just as extraordinary after dark as they are during the day.
The nine Dark Sky Discovery Sites provide a way of exploring this remarkable landscape while experiencing some of the darkest skies in Wales.
But don't rush.
Visit in daylight first. Walk a little. Explore the history. Find a café. Photograph the landscape. Watch the wildlife. Discover the communities.
Then stay until the light fades.
Because when darkness arrives in the Cambrian Mountains, you're not simply looking at the stars.
You're experiencing another side of Wales.
And that is exactly what we hoped the Cambrian Mountains Astro Trail would encourage people to discover when we began creating it in 2019.
Dafydd Wyn Morgan – SERYDDA
Night is the best time of day.
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